[HOME] Revised: 05-Nov-2025.
Rockwood Geo Pro G19FBTH Travel Trailer
Modifications,
Accessories and Fixes
I wanted to document the things I added, changed
or updated to the trailer. I got the items from a few different sources. I've
included screenshots from Amazon for the items or their equivalent where
possible.
Exterior
Trailer
coupling mark
I painted a white triangle on the front to make
it more visible in the backup camera for hitching up the trailer. A couple
pieces of masking tape, some white enamel paint and it's done.
Electric
jack cover
I picked up a Camco Electric Tongue Jack Head
Cover.
Jackite Pole Mount
I have 2 of these mounts for supporting a 31 foot Jackite fiberglass pole
and/or a 12 foot painter pole that I use for HAM radio
antennas. They mount nicely to the bike rack. I painted them flat black to
match the black powder coating.
Propane
Gauges
I added a couple propane tank gauges to provide a
quick indicator of the fuel level
Insect
Screens
I added insect screens on the openings for the
heater and water heater
Flexible
spout for exterior RV shower
The trailer came with a hose and sprayer for the
outdoor shower. I picked up a quick connect flexible spout for the outdoor
shower to change it. I think it was from
etrailer.com.
Backup
Cameras
I bought a camera for the back of the trailer and
also a license plate camera for the truck.
I mounted the monitor to a piece of plywood that fits into the recess
space on the dash
Trailer Suspension
Cross Member
On one of my trips as I was gassing up the truck a guy came up to me
and asked if I knew about the bar that was hanging down on the trailer. I said
no but was going to check it out. It was
a blue bar that ties the wheel suspensions together. It had lost the bolts on one side and was
hanging on with 1 bolt. I’m sure glad it
hadn’t fallen off on the highway as that would have been a disaster if a
vehicle behind me hit it. I found a Home Depot close by and stopped in there to
purchase some bolts and nuts. That fixed
it for the remainder of the trip. When I
got home, I checked the bolts again and added red thread locker to make sure
they won’t fall out again. It is something I check every time I stop for gas.
Solar
Panels
The trailer came with one 190W solar panel
installed. After the first trip with the
trailer it was apparent I needed more solar
power. I added a GoPower!
200W panel (same size and make as the one that came with the trailer).
That made a difference. The 2 panels are mounted
on the same side of the trailer's roof.
I wanted something on the other side of the roof to catch the sun on
that side of the trailer. The other side of the roof had some space limitation
due to the solar cable junction and the shower dome. I found a slim 100W panel that would allow
for some space to walk between the slim panel and the AC. With the curved roof, having panels on both
sides of the roof, I can start making more power a bit earlier (depending on
the orientation of the trailer).
Here’s what the roof looks like.
I put butyl tape (Quick Roof Butyl Tape for
Rubber Roof Seams) between the roof and solar panel mounting brackets. After
screwing down the panel, I used self-leveling sealant (Alpha Systems 1021
Self-Leveling Sealant for RVs - White) to seal everything. I got these items
from etrailer.com.
I
connected the three panels with a 3-to-1 connector.
Here's what the connection looks like on the
roof. I used a dab of lap sealant to hold the wires in place.
After installing the panels, I checked the wire
connections on the solar controller. One of the wires from the roof to the
solar controller was a bit loose. I also measured the voltage from the panels
as well as the battery voltage.
Solar Controller
The controller was screwed into the 1/8"
trailer paneling. I added a piece of 1/4" plywood behind the paneling so
there was something stronger for the controller screws to go in to.
Interior
mesh
pockets
I installed some mesh pockets to add more storage
space. I put 2 over the sofa and one under the TV, making sure they are at the
same height.
Screen Door
Bar
I installed a Camco RV screen door bar to make it
easier to close the door.
Door Shade
The door shade wasn’t working properly. I looked
online and found a few videos on installing and replacing the shade. I removed
the shade frame and say that I needed to straighten out the pleats and the
strig that it runs up and down with. That fixed the issue.
shoe rack
I added a couple shoe racks by the door
Mirror
Mirror on bathroom door. I'm not sure where my wife got this. It's
actually plastic so it's not very heavy.
I used some double-sided tape to attach it to the outside of the bathroom
door.
Towel Rack
over bathroom door towel rack. I also used some
double-sided tape to keep the rack from sliding sideways.
Shower
Curtain
replaced shower curtain hooks
One of the issues with the factory curtain rod
was it was cut a bit short. You could slide the rod to one side and it would
drop out of the holder. To remedy this,
I took a piece of 3/4” PVC tubing, cut it to the correct length, and slipped it
inside of the factory curtain rod. It solved the problem.
Shower Head
I replaced the factory shower head with Oxygenics PowerMassage shower
head.
Shower
Skylight
I use a piece of reflectix
to keep the sun and heat down a bit in the shower when it's not being used.
Other RVers have used adhesive backed hook and loop to attach the reflectix there. I
decided to fashion tabs from some thin polycarbonate to keep the reflectix in place. (More on the polycarbonate sheet below
in the kitchen). I made a hole in the
plastic tab and attached them under the existing screws.
Here's a close-up of one of the tabs
Bathroom night light
I picked a couple of these battery-operated
motion lights. I stuck on in the
bathroom above the out with a slimline charge for it.
Faucets hot/cold direction arrow labels
I added labels to the faucets in the bathroom and
kitchen to identify which is hot & cold and which direction to turn.
Wall clock
I found this 6" wall clock. It goes in the
space between the ceiling and the fold-down ramp. I remove it while driving.
Paper Towel
Rack
I saw others recommend this paper tower holder.
It fits nicely on the side of the overhead cabinet over the sink. It also
prevents the towel roll from self unrolling.
Magnetic
Hooks
You can see some of the magnetic hooks in the
picture above, attached to the metal window frame. I also have a couple on the
front of the stove/oven.
Dry Erase
Whiteboard
Other RV owners had recommended putting a whiteboard
inside to jot down any notes or things needed in the trailer. I stuck this to the front of the
refrigerator.
Refrigerator/Freezer
Bars
Like others have done, I added these bars to keep
things in the refrigerator and freezer in place while driving.
Refridgerator/Freezer Temperature monitor
I added a refrigerator/Freezer temperature
monitor. The display is mounted on the wall next to the refrigerator. I take it down while moving/driving.
Oven Pizza
Stone
I saw somewhere where it was suggested to place a
pizza stone in the oven to help keep the temperature from fluctuating too
much. I tried it baking some bread. It
does seem to keep the temperature more regulated /even. I need to do more
baking to really test it out. I use the yellow shop towels to protect things
while moving.
Magnetic
Hooks
You can see some of the magnetic hooks in the
picture above, attached to the metal window frame
Kitchen
Flip Down Drawer
Right under the sink there a flip open
drawer. From the factory, you can't put much
in it because when closing the drawer the items can
flip out the back and fall down into the drawer below or drop elsewhere (like
the heater). I fashioned an extension
from some thin polycarbonate panel plastic I had from another project. I
believe it was .030 thick. To form the corners, I used a heat gun to soften the
plastic then bent it over a piece of wood and let it cool. I use 2-56 machine
screws to attach it. It works very well.
Heater
Cover
The cover for the propane heater was attached
with 4 screws. I wanted to open it to check if anything from the drawers above
had fallen there. After removing the four screws I thought it would be nice to
add hinges and some kind of latch/catch to make it easier to access if I wanted
to get inside. I picked up these self closing hinges
and added a magnetic catch.
Counter
Extension
I saw others had added a fold down shelf to add a
bit more counter space to the kitchen. With this trailer layout, that didn't
seem feasible. At least like I saw others do. After thinking about it I thought
I could add a narrow shelf extension next to the sink. The had a couple
challenges. First there is only about 8 inches between the sink cabinet and the
rear wall with the ramp door. Next, is the AC outlet that I wanted to be
readily accessible. Then there's the sink cabinet paneling. I was surprised
that it was all 1/8 inch paneling with no middle
supports.
I decided to make the fold down shelf about 7
inches wide.
I added a 1x2 horizontal brace on the inside,
about halfway up from the floor. That stiffened up the paneling some. I also
added to the inside a piece of 3/8 inch plywood at the top to provide support
for the folding shelf hinge screws. Both were attached using wood glue and some
staples. On the outside I added a 1/4 inch plywood to mount the fold down shelf to. That way
the screws can go into the 1/4" plywood, thru the 1/8" paneling, and
into the 3/8" plywood on the inside. I applied gray stain to the outside
plywood in an attempt to match the cabinet color (that's all I had. If I were
to do it again, I'd look for a closer match with the paneling color).
I added a 1x2 on top of the fold down shelf
support to bring the shelf to the same level as the counter around the sink. I
used a router to create the recesses for the concealled
table hinges. I printed out a router template that I created, glued it to some
thin hardboard, and carefully cut it out. I made a few practice cuts with the roter to make sure I have everything dailed
in.
The shelf is 1/2 inch thick
shelf that had from IKEA. I cut it to
size and added PVC white edge banding to the cut edges.
To prevent the shelf from flapping around I used
a hook & loop strap to hold it together during transit.
12 Volt
Power Panel
Since I mostly do boondocking, I wanted more 12v
power so I don't need to turn on the generator or inverter to get power. The
wall panel with the inverter power switch (below the bed) looked like a good
spot to mount the 12v panel. Directly behind this panel is the AC inverter. To
access it just slide out the drawer. I
ran 10ga wire to the battery cutoff switch near the battery box. I used the existing wire opening in the floor
to run the wire outside, then sealed it with Great Stuff PestBlock.
The 12v panel also powers the USB outlet next to
the bed. More on that below.
Additional
AC Outlet
There were only 3 AC outlets inside the trailer,
one under the sofa, one next to the kitchen sink and one in the bathroom. I thought having an outlet under the 12 volt panel would be more accessible. I picked up an RV
style AC outlet.
The next question is how to hook it up. After some searching I found a product manual
for the outlet. It stated you could have a max of 3 "levels" of wire
with 14ga wire. They also had a special
tool to press the wires into the slots.
I found a YouTube video on how to use C-clamps the press the wires on
instead of using the specialty tool (expensive)).
The space under the bed is divided into two
spaces. The half toward the front of the trailer is the pass thru storage in
the front of the trailer. The other half has the water pump and hot water
heater on the bathroom side and the AC inverter on the other side (door side).
See photos below.
I considered wiring the new AC outlet directly to
the inverter, but after looking at the inverter wiring I opted for a simpler
solution. The solution I came up with was to extended the bathroom AC outlet I
Since I was already in that space for the 12volt
panel, I could also run the AC cable and mount the outlet under the 12 volt power panel.
Here’s the receptacle in the bathroom.
The red wires are from
the factory. I added the white wire to go to the new receptacle below the bed.
I also use a small 150w inverter to power any
120v things that need to run. It’s a bit more power efficient that running the
larger 1000W inverter.
Additional
USB outlet
While I was extending the AC wiring from the
bathroom AC outlet, I also added an additional USB outlet next the bed head
space. There's already a USB and AC outlet there (the black round spot in the
photo), but that requires shore power, generator or the inverter to be on. I
wanted something directly power from the batteries. This was wired into the 12 volt power panel I added (see above). The 12v power lines
were routed from the 12v panel, across the floor under the large drawer under
the bed and up into the wall between the bed and bathroom. The 120v power cable
follows the same path .
Heer’s what the cabling looks like with the drawer removed. The AC inverter is inside on the right.
Looking to the left side is the water pump and hot water heater.
Here’s what it looks like from the other side of the wall (inside the bathroom). It’s the small red & black wire that powers the outlet.
Overhead
Cabinets
The overhead cabinets needed some help. I noticed
the vertical wood pieces between the doors we’re attached very well. Upon
further investigation I found the pocket screws holes were stripped. The
cabinet face frame is made of pressed wood.
I proceeded to fix the screw situation. I removed the cabinet doors and
carefully removed the pocket screws. I inserted and glued small dowel pieces
into the screw holes. I trimmed the dowels flush and drilled a pilot hole for
the screw and reattached everything. It
is much stronger and the screws can grip into the pocket holes. The screws are
square drive, much like the Kreg screws are. Here are the pictures.
Cabinets
Locks
To keep the cabinet doors from opening during
transit, I first used some bungee cords thru the handles to keep then closed. I
saw others used child lock devices but those needed a separate magnetic device
to lock and unlock. I came across these push button cabinet latches on
AliExpress.
Specifications:
Suitable for: all kinds of Marine/Board RV, land furniture drawers, cabinet
door, cabinet furniture such as use.
Color: Brown/ Pearl Nickel/ Chrome/ White
Material: Plastic+Zinc Alloy
Size: AS photo show ( just following)
Cut Hole Φ (Diameter):20mm
Fit For Door Thickness: 15-18mm
Quantity:1Pc
Note:
1.Transition: 1cm=10mm=0.39inch
2.Please allow 0-3cm error due to manual measurement. pls make sure you do not
mind before you bid.
3.Due to the difference between different monitors,
the picture may not reflect the actual color of the item. Thank you!
Package Includes:
1Pc x Mini Push Button
I bought
one to see if it would work for the RV cabinets. After careful measurements, installing it on
a sample piece of wood, it looks like it would work. The main issue is that you have only one
chance to get it right as you would end up a big hole in the cabinet door. I ordered 5 more (I needed 5 but wanted a
spare). The push button latch requires a
20mm forstner drill bit.
I cut a couple pieces of 1 x 3 that match the
stiles of the doors (stiles are the vertical pieces of the door). As a side
note, the doors are made of real wood. The cabinet carcasses are made with
pressed wood (particleboard). I marked where the door edge meets the cabinet
frame. I found that every door is slightly
different. After carefully measuring and testing where the door stiles and
cabinet frames meet, I used one of the 1 x 3 pieces to replicate the door stile
to see if I could make this work.
I decided to start with the kitchen overhead
cabinets as the door stile measurements on the left and right doors where very
close to being the same. I measured many times to make sure I'd get the hole
located in the correct position to engage with the catch that came with the
push button latch. I removed the door
from the hinges and drilled the hole. It
did work.
The measurements for the 3 cabinet doors over the
sofa were more challenging. All were different.
They are all the same distance from the bottom rail of the cabinet door,
but the left to right position is slightly different. From the photo you really
don't notice the holes are in slightly different positions.
I like the way they look. The performed as
expected on the next trip, keeping the doors closed during transit. In the
pictures you can’t see the slight mounting differences of each latch. As I said
it was a challenge to get the holes right the first time so I didn’t have a
bunch of holes to patch or have to make new doors.
TV Antenna Booster
The RV came with a TV. There is an antenna
booster/amplifier. It’s part of the TV
antenna plate. It includes a push button power switch (on right side in the
photo) to turn on/off the built-in signal amplifier. It's easy to forget to
turn it off and slowly drain the battery. Or forget to turn it on and get no TV
signal.
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information at your own risk.
Revised: 11/05/25.